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Frequently
Asked Questions
Meet Brad...he has an
aversion to suits and ties. He is a cybersalesman who
understands your paranoias about leasing a new vehicle.
He is bound to the truth, and determined to give you
every stitch of information you need to make an educated,
fiscally sound decision. He is the guru of auto leasing.
He is your friend and your ally. You would love him
to marry your daughter and will want him as a golf partner...he
counts every stroke! He's your buddy, your pal. Brad
should wear a cape & mask because he is the defender
of all those weary souls wading their way through the
world of auto leasing....got a question...
The following questions have been answered, in detail
on this page. Click the question that interests you
to go directly to the question, or scroll down and read
them all.
WHAT
IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AN "OPEN END" LEASE
AND A "CLOSED END" LEASE...AND WHICH IS BETTER?
WHAT
IS THE MAXIMUM WRITE OFF FOR TAXES AND HOW MUCH CAN
I CLAIM?
IS
LEASING MORE EXPENSIVE THAN BUYING?
ARE
THERE ANY HIDDEN COSTS..?
SO, WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AN "OPEN
END" LEASE AND A "CLOSED END" LEASE...AND
WHICH IS BETTER?
GREAT QUESTION, TOUGH ANSWER...An "open end"
lease is a "NO KILOMETER RESTRICTION" lease.
In other words, you are not going to be penalized for
having an excessive amount of kilometers on the vehicle's
odometer at the expiry of the lease....BUT...
you are guaranteeing the residual value (buy-out amount)
during the term of the lease, and more importantly at
the expiry of the lease.
For example, if you
have an "open end" lease and your residual
value on the lease document is $10,000, you are guaranteeing
that the VEHICLE will be worth at least $10,000 at the
end of the lease.
Now you have three different
options to choose from at all times when you lease a
vehicle in an "open end" lease
1. Buy it.
2. If you decide not to purchase the vehicle, and the
vehicle is only worth $9,000 at the end of the lease,
then you would have to pay the difference between the
residual value ($10,000) and the value of the vehicle
($9,000). In this particular instance, you would have
to pay $1,000 + GST and PST ($1140).
3. If you decide not to purchase the vehicle, and the
vehicle is worth more, let's say $12,000, the leasing
company would cut you a cheque for $2,000 or you could
use the $2,000 as a cost reduction on a new lease.
Okay, so now you've got the idea--let's move on to the
"closed end" lease and it's advantages and
limitations...
A "closed end"
lease is quite different. It is a "KILOMETER RESTRICTED"
lease with an "OPTIONAL BUYOUT" at the lease
expiry. The kilometer restriction can vary, with the
industry norm being anywhere from 15,000 kms. to 30,000
kms per year. If you drive in excess of this amount
over the term of the lease, (and you do not wish to
use your option to purchase), you pay a penalty. The
penalty amount varies. Again the industry norm is anywhere
from 5 cents to 15 cents per kilometer (BE CAREFUL)
that you have driven over your allowance.
For example, if you
have a 48 month lease (4 year) with a 20,000 kms per
year restriction, you may put 80,000 kms on the odometer
without paying a penalty. If at the end of the lease
you have 100,000 kms on the odometer, and the kilometer
restriction penalty is $.08 per kilometer, you would
pay $1600 (20,000 X $.08) plus GST & PST. You will
also be responsible for "DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE
ABOVE AND BEYOND NORMAL WEAR & TEAR."
This includes the following: cigarette burns, tears,
stains, dents, large scratches, etc. as well as brake
pads (if they are less than 20% remaining), brake rotors
if they are worn, windshield wiper blades and any non-warranteed
part that is broken or not working...BE CAREFUL--IT
CAN ADD UP!
If you decide to purchase
the vehicle at the end of the "closed end"
lease, and the residual value is $10,000, then you pay
no penalty whatsoever and you purchase the vehicle for
$10,000 + GST & PST
Now, as far as which
lease is better...
...it depends on several
factors. Both have the same taxable benefits. If you
are putting money down as a cost reduction, the "open
end" lease is better. The buy-outs are generally
lower. Because of this, you are more apt to get your
equity down payment back at the end of the lease. For
example, you put $3,000 down at the start of the lease.
Your buyout is $10,000. The vehicle is worth $13,000
and you decide not to buy it out. The leasing company
would cut you a cheque for your equity--in this case
$3,000. If it was a "closed end" lease and
the buy-out was $12,000, the leasing company would generally
take the vehicle back and cut you a cheque for $1,000
(less any kilometer or damage penalties)
The "open end"
lease is less penalty oriented, BUT BE CAREFUL of the
"HIGH BUY-OUT" "open end" lease...
REMEMBER YOU ARE GUARANTEEING THAT RESIDUAL VALUE
In a nutshell, the "closed end" lease is better
for someone who treats their vehicles well and keeps
them in good condition, does not do an excessive amount
of driving, wants lower payments (this varies) and does
not intend to build equity or purchase the vehicle at
the expiry of the lease.
WHAT IS THE
MAXIMUM WRITE OFF FOR TAXES AND HOW MUCH CAN I CLAIM?
The maximum write off is $800.00 + PST + GST(GST is
recoverable in many cases with the exception of certain
professions, for instance, doctors, stock brokers and
insurance agents because they are exempt from collecting
GST).
The amount you claim
depends on what you are using the vehicle for (vehicle
use) and how often you use it for business. Many people
keep a record of use in order to prove to the tax man
that the usage amount is valid. Most people estimate.
Your accountant is the best person to talk to regarding
this as it varies vehicle to vehicle and person to person.
IS LEASING
MORE EXPENSIVE THAN BUYING?
There are pros and cons for both. The first thing you
should remember is that a vehicle is a depreciating
asset (it will, in most cases, be worth less tomorrow
than it is today). Bear this in mind as I explain!
There are 3 ways to
acquire a vehicle
1. Cash purchase (no
finance)
2. Cash purchase (finance)
3. Lease
I'll explain the differences between each.
1. Cash purchase (no
finance) - You will pay fewer total dollars if you purchase
a vehicle outright (depending on the deal you make).
But you will pay "all" of the tax (GST &
PST) upfront, so a $20,000 vehicle will cost you $22,800
after taxes, plus any documentation fees that the dealer
might charge. ($50-$500) BE CAREFUL!
2. Cash purchase (finance)
- If you purchase the same vehicle over a 48 month finance
period the $20,000 vehicle will cost you approximately
$550 per month X 48 months = $26,400 based on 7.75%
interest (this includes PST & GST). The bank will
generally want a down payment of $2,000 to $5,000 depending
on your credit and depending on the vehicle.
3. Lease - An example
of a lease on a $20,000 vehicle would be 0 down (first
month & security deposit), 48 months @ $379.00 per
month (taxes included) with a buy-out of $8,000 which
totals $379 X 48 =$18,192 + $9,120 (8,000 + PST &
GST) = $27,312.00
The conclusion...if
you go full term on the lease and buy the vehicle at
the expiry, you are paying more than a purchase or a
finance deal. However, if you do not buy the vehicle
at expiry, the vehicle has cost you $18,192 less whatever
equity you might have, example $8,000 buyout, but the
car is worth $10,000. You have $2,000 equity. Therefore
the vehicle cost you $16,192 for 4 years or $337.33
per month.
Using the same $20,000 on a finance deal, here's how
the numbers work. You pay $550 per month and you own
the vehicle at the end of the lease. Now you sell it
for $10,000. The vehicle cost over 4 years was $26,400
less $10,000 = $16,400 / 48 months = $341.67. Why is
it more? Because you already paid the GST & PST
when you purchased the car!!! You never paid that GST
& PST on the lease buy-out because you sold your
vehicle at the end of the lease.
How about the cash purchase
... same scenario...$20,000 + tax = $22,800. No payments,
in 4 years you sell the car for $10,000. $22,800 less
$10,000 = $12,800 / 48 months = $266.67...by far the
least amount paid. The problem is twofold.
1. Who has $22,800 lying
around to buy a car for cash--for those who do--good
for you!
2. How much money could you make with that $22,800 if
you invested it wisely?
PROS AND CONS - SO WHY LEASE?
Because you can have
the vehicle you want with a minimum amount of start
up money, your payment is lower and generally easier
to tolerate on a monthly basis and you only pay for
a portion of the vehicle & capitol cost & taxes.
You get to drive a new vehicle every 3 or 4 years, which
is nice. Although you can write off a purchase, the
tax man still favours leasing over purchase...ask any
accountant.
ARE THERE ANY HIDDEN
COSTS..?
BE CAREFUL, often times you will be quoted what appears
to be a very competitive lease rate only to find out
that your start up costs are higher because certain
fees were not disclosed to you. Examples (doc. fees,
lease fees, administration fees, freight & PDI,
newshoe fees, etc.) Always ask, "What will I be
cutting you a cheque for when I pick the vehicle up"?
and GET THAT NUMBER IN WRITING.
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